Posh Frocks Pattern Picks

So wedding seasons is nearly upon us, just like Glastonbury Festival, we’re having a fallow year for weddings, we hit it pretty hard last year, two in one week, one of them being our own. There are a few on the horizon for 2020 and I’ve already started to think about what to wear in 2020,  for me, half of the pleasure of sewing is in the planning of the projects, finding perfect patterns paired with the perfect pattern.  I made my first dress, to wear as a wedding guest last year, The Tilly And the Buttons Etta and I loved wearing it.So here’s my suggestions for posh frocks patterns to be the best dressed guest.

Named Clothing Elizabeth Gown

For a special occasion, it’s a good excuse to use a fabric that has been savoured. I found this emerald green midi-length dress on Pinterest  and I love the simplicity of it, it’s very elegant. I searched high and dry for a pattern that is similiar and the Named Clothing Elizabeth Gown is a great starting point. The thin straps and deep neckline at the back are a near perfect match. The bodice is lined with a V neck which could easily be hacked into a straight neckline. The Elizabeth Gown is maxi length with a high slit, with extra length to accomade being worn with high heels,  alterations would need to be made for a midi length and maybe some extra room in the skirt is the slit would be emmited. The pattern calls for well draping, light- to medium weight fabrics. The sample is made of silk crepe. This Bambo Silk from Ray Stitch is the goldy yellow or cornflower blue would be a great choice.

A Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers and Coco Jacket Trouser Suit

It’s not just Men who wear suits to weddings, there has been a growning number of floral trouer suits on the high street, many of the jackets make a nod to the 70’s with long line, oversized blazer. This style is not really for me, so I would love to make a Sew Over It Coco Jacket with Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers with the high waist hack, into a trouser suit. The advantage of making a suit, is that the pieces can be worn seperatley or together for the full effect. The Coco Jacket looks great in a brocade fabric and is luxurious for a special occasion. For me, this outfit is really driven by the fabric choice so over the coming months i’ll keep my eyes peeled for fabric. I like florals on a dark background, but I spotted this lighter colourway which would be ideal for summer from Minerva Crafts.

Vogue 9075 Jumpsuit

Finally, but by no means least, is a jumpsuit. This Vogue 9075 has been doing the rounds amongst the sewing community, rightfully so, as it is a beautiful pattern and very practical, looks like a skirt, but is actually culottes.  This version here by Sharadha is stunning, read review over on her blog. I like the view with sleeveless on the bodice and the added detail of a belt really finnishes it off. For fabric, I love this yellow taken from the inspiration photo, and the pattern calls for a medium-light fabric, with enough structure to maintain the pleats but enough drape to be move freely. I’d like to try a Yellow Tencel Fabric, again, I haven’t found the perfect fabric but this yellow gold tencel is a good start.

I hope you found inspirations from my suggestions for best posh frock (or jumpsuit or trousers) for a special occasion or well, just any occasion.

Until next time.

Claire & Co

XO

Minerva Crafts Blog: A Chambray Jumpsuit

For my Minerva Crafts Blog Project this month, I decided to make a Jumpsuit,  and used this Indigo Chambray. It’s the first jumpsuit I’ve made that feels like my style and look forward to making more jumpsuits in the future.  It has these huge pockets in the front, which make it functional, but you just put it on that’s your whole outfit done. It was my first time working with Chambray and it’s easy to work with and feels great to wear.

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Pattern: Simplicity K8610
Fabric: Indigo Chambray
Notions: Invisible zip.
Modifications: Heaps, I added a turn up cuff on the trousers, ditched the detachable straps, I tapered the trousers and left out the bodice band.
Fit: Requires a lot of fitting so make a toile
Difficulty: Relatively straight forward, the gathered trousers don’t require much fitting at the waist
Watch out for: Size, I used the garment measurements to decide what pattern to cut and still needed to take a lot in
Make Again?: Probably not, but definitely want to make more jumpsuits in the future.

Head to the Minerva Blog for the full review.

Disclosure: This post includes affiliate links

Claire

XO

Fashion Revolution Week 2019

Last week was Fashion Revolution week and it week got me thinking about my own sewing practise and what sustainable means to me. On 24 April 2013, the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh collapsed. 1,138 people died and another 2,500 were injured, making it the fourth largest industrial disaster in history. That’s when Fashion Revolution started. This year, 22-28th April 2019, marks the 5th Fashion Revolution Week, a campaign designed to enourage consumers to ask brands ‘who made their clothes?’ and to promote transparency across the manufacturing process.

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Fast fashion comes at a price to both people in the manufacturing process and to the planet. Slowly sustainable fashion is becoming more mainstream, the BBC’s documentary ‘Fashion’s Dirty Secrets’ broadcast at the end of 2018, opened eyes as it gave light to the enviromental impact of the fashion industry. Honestly, I’m not an expert in sustainable fashion, there are plenty of people out there who are, I recommend going and listening to the Wardrobe Crisis podcast as a starting point. Sustainable fashion can feel like an insurmountable task, but there are small ways in which as sewists and makers we can play our part.

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Make where you can

As makers, dressmakers, seamstresses, however you want to define yourself, being able to sew your own clothes is empowering because you cut out all the manufacuting process used in the garment production. The only way to know who really made your clothes, is well, making them yourself. This removes any grey areas in the supply chain. When brands outsource different parts of production, safe practises for employees and enviromental standards begin to slip. Being 100% self sufficient by sewing all your own clothes may not be possible. Upcyling is a great alternative to breathe life back into previously loved clothes. Ready to wear is a last resort, but all the knowlegde you have on fit and fabric means you’ll find it easier to make more informed choices. People Tree is a great choice for both basics and underwear, and you’ll be safe in the knowledge that the whole collection is responsibly sourced.

Choose well

Learning to sew puts you in control, you decide the fabric, the weight, the composition, print or plain, but with great choice comes great responsbility. Not all fabrics are created equally. There is a growing awareness in the sewing community with makers asking for GOTS certificates. There is choice between natural fibres, man-made or semi man-made. I wrote about how to choose fabric to help idenitfy what is right for your project. As a maker, it’s important to consider the whole lifecycle of fabric and how long certain fibres will take to break down. Biodegradeable organic textiles are produced and disposed of in a closed loop system, cotton, silk, wool, cashmere and hemp are all examples of closed loop fibres. Synthetic fabrics like polyester, spandex, nylon will eventually break down, but this process might take between 20 to 200 years. So choosing what your fabric is made from and how it is produced can have an impact on its enviromental cost.

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Use every inch of fabric

Once you’ve decided on your pattern and you’ve invested in some fabric, preferably one  that comes from a sustainable source, it’s important to make the most of this fabric. After all natural resources have been used to produce the cloth, so it is precious, not to mention you’ve spent your hard earned cash on it. There are a few options to ensure you’ve made the most from your fabric, you can chose to cut your pattern pieces out flat, instead of on the fold which is most common for home sewers for its ease and speed. Alternatively you can use a zero waste pattern, like this Zero Waste Shirt and Dress Pattern here by schnittchen patterns. Lastly, you can save your off cuts of fabric for smaller project, Spoonflower have produced a book for smaller pieces of fabric. You can use offcuts for Bee’swax wraps, washable cotton pads, dishcloths, pocket linings, kids clothes, the list is endless, but the mentality remains the same, use all of what you have.

Making for making’s sake?

After all this and before even starting on a project it’s worth asking, do I really need to make this? Be considered in your choice of projects, will this suit me? Will I wear it? Does this fit into my lifestyle? I’m a big advocate of a capsule wardrobe and ask a lot of questions about my style with the Collete Wardrobe Architect series which I would highly recommend. It’s difficult, because as a dressmaker making clothes is more than just a means to an end, it is an expression of creativity, so I’m not saying never make anything just for the pure joy of making, but maybe just make one or two fancy dresses a year, instead of 10, if you only wear fancy dresses once or twice a year.

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It’s not just about the clothes

Finally, Fashion Revolution asks questions about manufacturing and transparacy of supply chain and these questions raised apply all year round and not just during one week of the year. The same questions rasied apply to shoes, bags, accesories and homeware. By being part of Fashion Revolution it’s a lifelong commitment to fairer production and attempting to leave the smallest impact on the planet.  Jewellry designer Alison Macleod (who made my wedding rings) raised the importance of ethical and fair jewellery (blood diamonds still remain a problem today). Cambridge Satchel Company manufacture their leather bags in the UK. Consumers are becoming more savvy to this and brands have to adapt accordingly.

Fashion Revolution is a movement, it’s a mindset, it’s about asking questions about where all things came from, how they were produced and at what cost to the people involved and to the planet. This week raised a lot of questions for me, as a maker and as a consumer. I try to be as responsible as possible, my sewing output has radically decreased and I choose to invest in better quality fabrics and spend more time on quality of finish, focusing on fit and longevity. If I have to buy something ready to wear, I see it as an investment, not a throwaway purchase. In the future if I’m producing something out into the world, I want to know it’s not going to cost the earth.

Claire

XO

Inspired by Rifle Paper Co.

At the moment I am obsessed with patterns, everywhere I go I’m seeing prints, tearing off corners of wrappers, newspapers and cutting out magazines collecting inspirations for my #100daysofpattern project where I make a repeat pattern everyday. What’s great about the 100 day project is that it forces quantity, when at the start of the design process quality is missing. It’s quite frustrating when you first start creating, there’s a gap between what you’re making and what you want to be making. Your work is falling short and — worse — you know it. This short film sums it up brilliantly.

This is especially true for me designing repeat patterns, (probably what caused some serious procraftination to get started) is that as someone who sews I’m exposed to so many great fabric designs, nearly everday. Instead of getting paralysed in fear of how many great designs are out there, I wanted to look, I mean really look at great print design companies, understand what I like about their work and how I can translate these elements into my own work. So here it goes and first up, is Rifle Paper Co.

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Rifle Paper Co. is a stationery and lifestyle brand based in Winter Park, Florida founded and owned by husband and wife team, Anna and Nathan Bond. It was built on the principle that life’s personal stories and moments are best told through the gift of a handwritten card or note to share these moments with others. I have been on the receiving end of one of these notes and too beautiful to discard, I’m treasuing this card as a bookmark.

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In the past I might have been sceptical about a stationary brand, firstly, because it seems like such a saturated market, secondly, because it seems simple, trivial even, but perhaps in my old age I’m becoming increasingly more sentimental and now see the value of a handwritten note. The strength of the brand comes from the strong signature style, florals. The repeats are densely packed and overlapping, you can’t see the background, it’s this busy print that really makes them stand out. Standalone, the motifs are beautiful and are sold as individual prints.

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I love the bright florals on the dark backgrounds, it reminds me of canal boat folk art. I think it’s easy to think of florals are exclusive to softer, dare i even say pastel colours, but the use of the strong dark colour really makes the details stand out and is a confident choice.

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The floral repeat patterns on dark backgrounds translate really well from stationary to fabric. As a sewer I’d spotted these Rifle Paper Co. prints crop up with a collaboration with Cotton and Steel made beautifully here by Kate Eva Designs. Although such densely packed florals are not something I wear at the moment, I think they make beautiful garments to be worn all year round. You can buy the fabric on Minerva Crafts here & here.

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Aside from florals, the collection has a strong focus on craftsmanship, you can see brush strokes, pencil marks, etchings and where the repeats have been screen printed. For me, there is a lot of charm in showing the process to the print production, rather than seamless and at times souless digitial repeat designs.

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Last but not least, there is a sense of fun, without being too much like crafty quilting cotton, which just isn’t my bag. I love the dogs wearing sunglasses and the vespa prints give an insight into personality without being too cutesy, quirky or defining the brand.

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I really enjoyed looking through the Rifle Paper Co. collection, it was interesting to see how prints translated from fabric, to stationary to wall art and what I found appealed to me.  I found the whole exercise inspiring and it reiterates that although the stationary market seems over-saturated, there is no one doing your own unique style and it is a reminder of how important a strong signature style is.

We’re working on it.

All for now.

Claire & Co.

XO

 

#100daysofPattern – Week 1

So this is the start of my #100daysofPatterns. The prompt for this week’s theme is celebrate, which was broad covering a whole host of occasions to celebrate, including new homes, new life and another year passing. So here’s my image board that got me started.

 

 

 

Day 1 – I started with flowers, because despite my reservations about floral print design, most celebrations include florals in some way. With the help of Skillshare I wanted to digitialise my design and work on the all important repeat pattern. I experimented with a background colour, but most importantly I wanted the daisies to retain their painterly quality, so I didn’t manipulate my initial image too much.

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Day 2- Next, I worked on a pineapple print, I’d dreamt up ever since illustrating a ‘new home’ card with a pineapple, Pineapples in the Victorian era were a symbol of welcoming and hospitality. I overlayed the image as a symbol of abundance.

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Day 3 – Next I explored paper streamers. I knew I needed a bit of inspiration, so I collated some images to get me started.  I manipulated the colours in Photoshop whilst keeping as much as the painterly quality of the lines as possible.

 

 

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Day 4– I looked at confetti. I wanted to created an abstract print and spent some time making different elements in my sketchbook and scanning them in.

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Day 5-  I took my inspiration from champagne bubbles and used the multiply and divide feature in Photoshop to overlay the handdrawn bubbles on photoshop. Although this works as a tile, I’m not sure how well this pattern would repeat, as my idea was to have dense bubbles at the bottom and gradually dissipate.

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Day 6 – Then I looked at animals in party hats, because, well why not. I definately see this print working as a set of cards, with a pom pom attached, because everything is better with a pom pom on.

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Day 7– I struggled because my inspiration was sparklers and it didn’t really translate as a literal motif, so instead I broke down the sparkler into it’s sparks and ended up happy with the result. It did remind me of this Atellier Brunette French Terry.

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Week 1 done, what did I learn?

Well this week had a steep learning curve. My focus was to get my head around how to turn things from my sketchbook into something digital and I didn’t want to be too precious about the design. I feel like I’ve only just scratched the surface and found myself quite frustrated on a number of occasions trying to get the computer to do what I wanted. So there is going to be a lot more time spent watching Skillshare tutorials.

Secondly, I started to understand what elements I needed to draw and paint to make a repeat pattern, the penny dropped on day 4. I want to keep as much of the hand drawn and painterly affects on my patterns as possible.

I’m naturally beginning to see a colour palette form; yellows, (obviously) blues, mint green, neutral & blacks and for now I want to stick within these colours and work at bringing in new colourways in upcoming projects.

Finally, there is a lot to be said for consistency and showing up, some days I struggled, like on day 5, and other days I had a design for a repeat pattern, a product and a print.

Next week it’s more of the same, I have a few days holidays next week so this is going to be a test of discipline and consistency to stick to the #100daysproject.  But so far, I’m still enthussed as I’m creating a body of work, with some ideas I want to develop further. The pattern from day 2, the pineapple, and day 4, the confetti, need more explorations. I want to see how these prints work on fabric and even on products, so I’m going to mock this up and getting some samples printed from spoonflower.

At the moment it’s eat, make, yoga,repeat. Honestly, it’s a routine I could get used to. I’d love to hear how you’re getting on with your #100dayproject and if anyone out there has any tips for creating pattern designs. I’m all ears.

All for now.

Claire & Co.

XO